PARIS

“Queremos ropa basura”: 5 mensajes que deja éste ciclo de fashion weeks

14/10/2018 44 comments

Tomando un café en el aeropuerto de París esperando mi vuelo de salida a Dubái, me siento a pensar un poco en lo que nos deja este ciclo de semanas de la moda.  A pesar de la presencia de este arte y sus varios mensajes en el mundo (algunos inspiradores, otros de protesta y hasta incoherentes) pocos lo entienden.  Se plasma a diario en revistas, centros comerciales, películas, exhibiciones, y calles,  pero aunque la moda es posiblemente uno de los sectores culturales más visibles, a su vez de una manera u otra, también es uno de los menos indagados. Empezando con Nueva York y cerrando con París…¿Qué mensajes exactamente nos deja esta serie de semanas de la moda? Más allá de tendencias de colores, cortes, etc, ¿qué filosofías y declaraciones dominaron las propuestas?

1)  QUEREMOS ROPA BASURA

Si bien es verdad que el mundo sigue consumiendo moda rápida a velocidades y cantidades temibles, a su vez hay una parte importante del mercado que exige un cambio.  Cada temporada se ven más diseñadores como YVES SALOMON y STELLA MCCARTNEY que utilizan materiales reciclados que a través de la tecnología se incorporan con el diseño  y resaltan entre las colecciones más glamurosas del mundo. Es decir, si nadie nos dice que los materiales fueron reciclados, no nos enteramos. Entre el diseño y técnicas aplicadas, el resultado es digno de una alfombra roja.

YvesandStella01

2) EL MUNDO QUIERE BORRAR LAS LÍNEAS ENTRE GÉNEROS

ÉSTE quizás es uno de los mensajes que más dominó esta temporada.  No vestimos a mujeres, no vestimos a hombres, vestimos a la gente y PUNTO.  Algunos diseñadores lo hacen como parte de su ADN y mensaje, otros como estrategia de marketing.  Pero algunos de los fieles creyentes en borrar las líneas entre géneros son Haider Ackermann, Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garcons y Junya Watanabe.

PD: el maquillaje no se queda atrás.  La neutralidad de género se vio plasmada inclusive en el backstage con el estilo de maquillaje que no cambia entre hombres y mujeres.

HaiderYohjiCDGJunya02

3) ENTRE MÁS NATURAL, MEJOR

El mundo te quiere ver a TI.  Tu piel.  Tus ojos.  Tú.
Debo aplaudir a MAC COSMETICS porque ésta temporada casi todos los backstage en los que pudimos intervenir, se observó una clara tendencia de “menos es más”.  resaltando siempre las facciones innatas de cada persona.

MACBSBeauty03

4) QUEREMOS ALGO QUE NOS REPRESENTA…¡Y LO QUEREMOS YA!

El anterior punto me lleva justamente al yo, yo, y yo.  Y no lo resalto como algo negativo, porque la consciencia colectiva es un tema, mientras el autodescubrimiento y expresión individual es otro.   Queremos explorarnos como seres independientes y la moda quiere complacernos no solo con una gran variedad de tendencias, pero también con la opción de la personalización.

VariousPFW04

5) SOMOS CIUDADANOS MUNDIALES Y ESTAMOS CELEBRANDO EL MESTIZAJE MIGRATORIO

Globalización: Cada vez somos más habitantes en el planeta, y con ello, somos cada vez más quienes estamos viviendo aires de cambios, en el que todo se encuentra entrelazado por la tecnología y sus aciertos (como desaciertos). Vivimos en un mundo donde las horas del día son escasas para la mayoría, y donde el ritmo vertiginoso en el que se desarrolla nuestro alrededor nos obliga a ir hasta dos pasos adelante frente al sistema, o el sistema pasará encima tuyo.

Viajes: Es la única forma en la que podemos desconectarnos y a la vez reconectarnos con nuestra esencia, con nuestro yo interior. Es la forma idónea también de aprender nuevas culturas, conocer nuevos y encantadores lugares, y tener una perspectiva del mundo mucho más amplia.

Ethnic from everywhere: Lo étnico siempre será una palabra clave cuando de redescubrir lugares, personas y sensaciones, se trata. Arriésgate, investiga, nútrete de toda la información posible acerca del (o los) sitios donde estés, y atesora esa información, ya que la experiencia la podrás contar siempre, por más años que pasen.

We are insipiring each other: Sé una voz para aquellos que no pueden expresarse libremente. Hazte sentir, inspira a otras personas a hacer lo que haces, y también a los que siempre han querido pero no se atreven. Cada quien es libre poder tomar acción respecto a su vida y a su calidad de vida, la pregunta es: ¿Qué estás esperando para generar el cambio?

Inclusión: Permitámonos conocer a las personas sin juzgarlas por su color, credo, o preferencia sexual. Al incluir a la gente en tu vida, aprender de ellos y enseñarles, el enriquecimiento que obtienes será infinito, te hará una persona mucho más abierta de mente, tolerante y las barreras mentales que pudiste o no tener, desaparecerán por completo.

Transgender: La identidad de género, tan sobrevalorada (y repudiada) por años, nos está llevando a cambios de 360 grados, donde (finalmente) se está aceptando en la sociedad que el ser humano es eso, un ser humano, y vamos más allá de géneros identificados al momento de nacer. Todos somos libres de sentirnos como mejor nos parezca, de poder ser libres de mente y cuerpo; y de coexistir en armonía con la humanidad.

VariousPFW05

6)  EL EMPODERAMIENTO FEMENINO SE VIENE CON TODO 


Desde las culturas con mayor represión social como la china hasta las más liberales como la francesa, las mujeres se empoderan a través de la moda y no temen expresarlo. Y no hay mejor frase para resumirlo que:

THE FUTURE IS FEMALE

Banner-misty-trends

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