LOEWE: el «fashion giant» que saquea la identidad ecuatoriana

22/11/2017 74 comments

Front Row - Lowe - Ecuador - Otavalo


¿HOMENAJE O COPIA?
 

Emmmm…Disculparán pero mi humilde opinión es que si sería homenaje, habría mención del Ecuador o alguna cultura andina en la última colección de Loewe, uno de los titanes de la moda internacional con origen español.  No sé ustedes pero yo estoy HARTA de que las grandes corporaciones de moda se olviden de la diferencia entre inspiración y apropiación.  Es un robo y NO HAY otra manera de verlo. ¿Creen ustedes que las personas que adquieran estas prendas de las tiendas de LOEWE pagando un precio bastante caro, tienen la más mínima idea del verdadero origen de sus diseños? No.   Y ya que el DISEÑO señores, es lo que vende, ¿no sería justo que se reconozca y remunere debidamente a los autores creativos como son en este caso, los artesanos ecuatorianos produciendo la colección con ellos?

Hay muchos que justamente defienden la apropiación (siempre y cuando se mantenga el respeto por la cultura) porque al incorporarlo al diseño, utilizando el folklore sin ser folklóricos, es una de las mejores maneras de que este perdure e inclusive sobreviva. De hecho yo no tengo problema como tal en que se usen “inspiraciones” ecuatorianas, esa parte me parece GENIAL. Le parte que me molesta es que no se nombre en ningún lugar el origen. Es un tema de que a mi personalmente me habría parecido aun mejor que se involucren a comunidades andinas en alguna parte del proceso. El problema no es el que estemos abiertos a que un grupo tome prestado de otro grupo (como ha sido el caso inclusive entre los territorios vecinos) es que no se reconozca su origen que no es tan claro tampoco en la descripción de la inspiración. Se puede ver todo de muchos ángulos.

 

 

Front Row - Lowe - Ecuador - Otavalo (1)

 


La delgada línea entre ser intercultural y apropiarse
Algunos argumentarán que es la consecuencia del mestizaje.  Pero en un mundo globalizado el problema es que no se reconozca su origen. Que una vez más se vacíe el propósito y significado de su trabajo.  Y lo más triste de todo esto es que las culturas y comunidades más descriminadas son las que sufren apropiación de los mismos grupos que las menosprecian desde un inicio.

Personalmente sigo con la idea de que las marcas internacionales pueden involucrar más a los artesanos en estos casos (profesionalizando más a los comunidades en el caso de ser necesario, obvio) y que creo que es el momento de que la moda de este tipo de pasos, especialmente en el sector de lujo que ya tiene un target con poder adquisitivo alto y valora el handmade, etc. El propósito de mi publicación es que yo siento muy personalmente que en este caso no se lo hizo de una manera respetuosa. Sencillamente estoy invitando a otras personas que sientan lo mismo a que apoyen la petición que se ha creado y que llegó a mis manos.

 

Front Row - Lowe - Ecuador - Otavalo (2)

 

El caso de Isabel Marrant con las comunidades Mexicanas no fue el primero ni será el último…y la cultura de turno es la nuestra.  Por favor firmen ESTA petición para juntos defender la propiedad cultural del ECUADOR.

 

Front Row - Lowe - Ecuador - Otavalo (3)

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