Hablemos de 10 de los momentos políticos más importantes de la moda

21/02/2017 58 comments

Parafraseando a la escritora española, Patrycia Centeno, toda revolución tiene su propio atuendo. Por la situación actual que están pasando el Ecuador y varios paises en latinoamérica; en Front Row nos pareció oportuno hacer un repaso por varios de los momentos en los que la moda y la política se unieron en voz de protesta y marcaron hitos dentro de la historia.

Front row blog 2

 A inicios del siglo anterior, surgieron varios cambios con una influencia política y social dentro de la moda como el principio de la liberación del corset femenino con Poiret, que continuará con Coco Chanel.

 

Front Row Fashion Blog 1

 

Al rededor de 1911, las mujeres que buscaban su participación electoral mediante el sufragio, crearon su propio código de colores para identificarse y apoyarse entre sí, como verde para esperanza, morado para lealtad y blanco para pureza, usándolos especialmente en accesorios.

 

front row blog 3


Para la década de los 20’s, las flappers destacan con vestidos opulantos pero con siluetas rectas de cinturas bajas, creando una silueta menos marcada y acercándose en lo que años futuros será la silueta unisex.

 

Front Row Fashion Blog 4

Dando un salto en el tiempo, durante la segunda guerra mundial, varios de los insumos en moda empiezan a escasear, especialmente el nylon que es utilizado para carpas y paracaídas de los soldados, creando una recesión en cuanto a la confección de prendas. Una vez acabada la guerra, las mujeres necesitaban levantar el ánimo y retomar su imagen; esto vendrá de la mano de Christian Dior y el new look.

 

Front Row Fashion blog 6

Para la década de los 50’s, hay un auge en las diferentes tribus urbanas como los rockers y los moods que empezaron a difundir y democratizar el uso de las chaquetas de cuero y de lo jeans, llevándolo más allá de las prendas de trabajo. Estos dan paso a los Teddy boys que empezaron a fusionar trajes estilo sastre y totalmente pulcro con botas de trabajo para rescatar su origen obrero.

 

Front row blog 7

En la siguiente década, el movimiento hippie se hace presente con sus coloridos atuendos, melenas largas y un pronunciamiento y llamado a la paz ante la guerra con Vietnam, además de su respaldo a la liberación femenina que se manifestaba con el uso de las minifaldas que tanto revuelo causaron y los movimientos feministas con la quema de brasieres a finales de los 60’s que fueron conocidas como “bra-burners”.

 

1970 front row fashion blog

 

Frente al pacifismo hippie, especialmente en USA, se desata una incomodidad en UK en donde el punk busca una forma más radical de protestar y un cambio que se vio reflejado en una indumentaria mucho más fuerte, llena de cadenas, apliques, spikes y parches en gran parte encabezado por Vivienne Westwood. Utilizando muchas veces ropa de trabajo o prendas intervenidas por ellos mismos, buscan una identidad propia y que salga de lo establecido para ese entonces, además de desafiar un estado monárquico.

 

 

1980 plaza de mayo


Bajando a Latinoamérica, unas décadas más tarde, encontramos a las madres de la plaza de mayo, quienes usaban pañuelos blancos para cubrir su cabeza como reclamo ante la desaparición de sus hijos durante la dictadura militar argentina y sentando un precedente de protesta pacífica ante un gobierno. Paralelo a esto con el surgimiento de nuevos frentes políticos en oposición a las dictaduras en América Latina se comienzan a utilizar ponchos y prendas de lana con diseños folklóricos y andinos.

 

Law Street front row blog 9

Un hecho reciente y que no ha pasado desapercibido para nadie, han sido las elecciones  presidenciales en Estados Unidos, donde el simple hecho de colocarse un imperdible en la solapa de las prendas se ha utilizado en modo de protesta por los resultados electorales; seguido de la marcha multitudinaria de mujeres con los “pussy hats” que se expresaron en contra de los anuncios machistas y racistas del Presidente, y que recibió apoyo en diferentes ciudades a nivel mundial.

 

Front Row fashion blog 10

Dentro de la industria, igual existieron grandes referentes como la camiseta de Dior con su leyenda “We should all be feminist” y la iniciativa de Business of Fashion para usar e implementar bandanas blancas como símbolo de unión entre las diferentes razas y nacionalidades a nivel mundial.

En el panorama político actual en Ecuador, ¿Cuál será nuestro nuevo símbolo?

Por: Dany Tapia

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