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La Moda también es Parte de la Revuelta Cultural: Entrevista con Lucho Monteros

08/06/2018 158 comments

Lucho Monteros es una figura tan versátil que resulta casi imposible introducirlo.

Sin importar los calificativos, la obra de Lucho sacude mi estancamiento mental y activa mi anhelo por empaparme de cultura.  Sí, ya lo sé…hablar de cultura suele ser sinónimo del tedio insufrible, pero Lucho desafía esa etiqueta con su maravilloso blog Bitácora del Diablo, los cortos 1 Libro en un Minuto y 1 Película en 1 Minuto, la docu-serie Pedaleando al Sur, y desde luego, su célebre programa DeContrabando (sin mencionar varios libros de su autoría).

No hay mejor antídoto al consumo de mensajes chatarra que la propuesta fresca y cautivadora de Lucho.  Sus programas contagian su fiebre por las ideas y lo perfilan como el profeta cultural de una nueva generación de ecuatorianos.  Toparse con los videos de Lucho es como descubrir a un nuevo mejor amigo que transforma tu panorama cotidiano de manera relajada, con un don para entretener, observaciones astutas y una capacidad de síntesis fuera de serie.

Hace poco tuve el privilegio de grabar un episodio de DeContrabando con Lucho en el que charlamos sobre Front Row, aunado a las raíces de mi pasión por la moda (¡no dejen de verlo!).  Con gran apetito de repetir la experiencia, invité a Lucho a retomar el hilo de nuestro diálogo para aprender más sobre cómo un gran escritor y comunicador literario se relaciona con la moda.

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Lucho confiesa que su percepción sobre la moda ha dado un giro, en parte por las demandas estéticas de DeContrabando.  “Lo mío son las palabras, así que quizá supeditaba la moda a un esnob o a la mera comercialización de estereotipos”, comparte Lucho, “Pero he aprendido que esas son consideraciones que intentan excusar el desconocimiento puro y duro, más allá de la industria y el espectáculo”.

Para Lucho, proponer un concepto estético con la vestimenta y los accesorios ha sido un aprendizaje.  “Es increíble cómo la forma de vestir marca tanto en lo que comunicas a los demás y en lo que proyectas de ti mismo”, comenta, “Por eso ahora valoro más el trabajo de los diseñadores y he comprendido que la moda es una expresión de la cultura importantísima, tanto así que a partir de ella bien se podría reconstruir muchos de los mayores acontecimientos del siglo 20”.

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En otras palabras, al vestir no sólo participamos en la cultura de nuestro tiempo, sino que activamente ¡hacemos cultura!  La clave, según Lucho, está en rechazar la idea de que los ejercicios culturales son intrínsecamente formales, reservados o aburridos.   Si realmente deseamos combatir estereotipos al vestir, bien podríamos seguir el ejemplo de DeContrabando que se ha valido de una gran combinación de, “colores, marcas, diseños de vestuario, a los que se suma el pelo, la barba, e incluso el trabajo de dirección de arte (escenografía, vestuario, utilería) que han hecho del programa un referente a nivel estético dentro del mundo de los medios”.

Por supuesto, los invitados del talk show han servido de colaboradores cuando de imagen se trata.   Lucho cuenta que más de 50 artistas destacados han pasado por DeContrabando, “y lo han hecho con su propia voz y su propio estilo: refinamiento, elegancia, vanguardia, recato, desprolijidad, alegría, frescura, son algunas de las palabras que me vienen a la mente. Eso además del uso de cachuchas, sombreros, gorras, boinas, collares, tocados, plumas, bufandas, tatuajes, piercings, peinados estrafalarios, tacones… en fin, cada loco con su tema, dice Serrat”.

Lucho sabe que la vestimenta que portan sus invitados no son adornos casuales o aislados, sino que están vinculados a su mensaje como sello personal.  Más allá de ser mera extensión cultural de la obra a discutirse, Lucho asevera que, “La combinación de colores, la depuración de estilos, la carga simbólica que puede tener un objeto bien llevado o colocado sobre una mesita del set, pueden ser tan importantes como las preguntas que les hacemos, como la fluidez del diálogo, porque comunican más de lo que uno piensa.”

Los elementos estéticos no sólo tienen su propia razón de ser, sino que develan ante el espectador las ideas, autenticidad e historia del invitado, participando silenciosamente en el “tráfico de ideas”, como dice el lema del programa.  Cuando de moda se trata, ¡la forma también es fondo!

Buscando las semejanzas entre la moda y los temas literarios, le pregunto a Lucho acerca de algo que escribió: “La literatura es un juego de permanente experimentación, es la posibilidad inacabable de crear y recrear a través de la palabra, como vehículo de expresión”.  ¿Se puede decir lo mismo de la moda?

“Exacto,” responde, “la moda tiene mucho de experimentación, de juego, que transmuta permanentemente, que vuelve sobre sí misma y se reinventa, se descubre a la luz de cada pueblo y cultura, de cada época. Somos hijos de una cultura – de muchas que convergen – y en ella la forma en la que te presentas es fundamental, porque eso proyecta quién eres, tu trayectoria, tus valores, tus gustos y preferencias.”

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La transformación que describe Lucho me recuerda que las artes jamás son estáticas porque son un reflejo vivo de nosotros.   Si los seres humanos estamos en evolución constante, ¿tiene sentido vestir sin tomar en cuenta los cambios en nuestras emociones, identidad y capacidad de expresión?

La moda también se topa con la literatura cuando Lucho trata de dar vida a sus personajes.   “El vestuario de un personaje delata mucho y en esos elementos tú puedes cargar también símbolos que hablen de quién es y cómo actúa”, describe Lucho, “Fíjate en el rol que juega el diseño de vestuario en el cine, cómo te permite definir, resumir, proyectar.”

Refiriéndose a la apariencia de sus personajes, Lucho dice que, “en literatura todo debe contribuir al relato, cada elemento está ahí para significar algo, nada es accesorio ni casual”.  También queda en nosotros cuestionar de qué modo nuestra forma de vestir contribuye al relato de nuestra vida única e irrepetible.  El comentario de Lucho me recordó de una frase del filósofo Albert Camus, “La ficción es una mentira que nos revela la verdad” y efectivamente, la vestimenta ficticia que imagina Lucho revela verdades sobre la experiencia humana y cumple con el mismo papel que la vestimenta de la vida real.

Lucho advierte que la búsqueda de uno mismo, sea mediante la vestimenta o no, es una batalla ya que, “Esta es una sociedad de caníbales porque hemos caído en un círculo vicioso de competencia y comparación permanentes en el cual es preferible adherir a la norma para evitar conflictos. Es como si la vida fuese un asunto de imponer verdades, de homogenizarlo todo. Qué difícil resulta para las sociedades aceptar que haya ‘un otro’ distinto, con valores, gustos o preferencias diferentes.”

De hecho, los programas culturales como DeContrabando pueden ayudarnos a desarrollar un estilo propio ya que, según Lucho, “Mientras menos capacidad de reflexión tienes, mientras menos contacto con el mundo, la cultura y el arte tienes, más afianzas esos prejuicios, porque nos han (mal)educado para caminar sobre una línea recta y hacer la vida como la hicieron los abuelos (¡incluso con su misma ropa!).”

Los programas culturales de Lucho son, en alguna medida, un reto a los estereotipos, los dogmas y las verdades cómodas, y queda claro que quienes deseamos vestir con autenticidad también debemos aceptar ese reto.

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Lucho especula que cuesta incorporar a la moda como parte de la expresión cultural porque, aparte de las limitantes socioeconómicas, “somos una sociedad que todavía tiene espasmos reaccionarios, el ‘curuchupa’ que llevamos dentro castra la iniciativa, es preferible mantener un perfil bajo, ser conservadores, clásicos, usar colores oscuros, neutros, sin cortes fuera de lo común, sin escándalos.”

Así que cualquier exploración personal mediante la moda requiere afrontarnos a nuestro propio adoctrinamiento cultural. “Desde ese mismo púlpito se asocia lo colorido con la homosexualidad en los hombres y lo estrafalario con la promiscuidad en las mujeres, por ejemplo”, ilustra Lucho.

Sin embargo, varias corrientes modernas han frenado los prejuicios que, de acuerdo a Lucho, originan en complejos personales no resueltos. “Cada vez más gente se atreve a salir de su zona de confort y usar nuevos diseños, probar estilos, colores”, señala, “darse cuenta que te han comido el cuento para que lleves, día a día, una suerte de extensión del uniforme del colegio o el hábito religioso.”

Lucho me recuerda que los cuestionamientos de otros tienen poco que ver con nosotros, “uno escucha disparates que, generalmente, hablan más del que los dice.”  Así que pese a nuestras vulnerabilidades, queda en nosotros atrevernos a ser distintos sin dar crédito a las caracterizaciones externas de quienes puedan juzgarnos.

Bien lo sabe Lucho, que ha vivido las críticas en carne propia y  comparte la experiencia de coincidir con un ex-compañero que, “Mientras saludaba, se burló de mi corte de pelo, para él, inadecuado para alguien de mi edad. ¡Cómo no se iba a escandalizar!, si lo decía alguien que parecía monaguillo, alguien que refunfuñaba sus propias frustraciones, su vejez prematura y, de seguro, estaba corroído de envidia.”

Me doy cuenta de que, en el fondo, Lucho y yo somos traficantes del mismo negocio: vencer prejuicios (¡empezando por los propios!) y tratar de nutrir en los demás el amor por lo auténtico.  Cada quién a su modo, tratamos de darles a nuestros seguidores medios para el autoconocimiento y acercarlos a nuevas experiencias de vida.

Las palabras de Lucho me recuerdan que para expresarnos debidamente es vital renovar continuamente la relación con nosotros mismos, y por extensión, aceptar – no, ¡celebrar! – las expresiones de los demás, por más diferentes que sean a las nuestras.

El día que duden cómo vestir, busquen su Lucho Monteros interno (bigote incluido para quienes deseen, aunque yo me conformaría con su dicción impecable) y láncense a romper esquemas en las palabras que usamos y las prendas que portamos.

Lucho nos deja con un sabio consejo que sirve para construir nuestro estilo personal y mucho más: “Quizá valga mirar más hacia fuera y hacia adentro que alrededor, sonreír frente al espejo, sonreír al que pasa sin esperar respuesta y hacer camino, que la diferencia se marca haciendo camino.”

¡Dicho como buen profeta!  Digo…¿como buen comunicador?   ¿Revoltoso de amplio vocabulario?

Bueno, qué más da, como dice  el mismo Lucho, definir es limitar.

¡No olviden seguir a Lucho en instagram!
@luchomonteros

Banner Misty

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